Index of Subjects
advertising campaigns
51
Guy Bourdin for Charles Jourdan
205
,
207 –209 212
fashion plates
1
,
8
,
217 – 218 220
,
222
,
228 –231
alatzietina
318
allotment (clothing)
2
,
294
,
296 –298 300 –301 304
Amalia dress
312 –314
anteri
311
art
67 –69
Arte Povera
2
,
10 –11 323 –324 331 –333 335
and fashion
1
,
2
,
4 –5 8
,
10 –11 61
,
71
,
96
,
107 –110 113
,
117
,
136
,
153 –154 156
,
171 –172 193 –194 196 –201 217 –218 220
,
223
,
227 –229 231
,
234
,
236 –240 242 –244 249 –250 252 –256 324 –325 328 –330 338
foundations
2
,
4 –5 60 –65 71
bearskin
298
body
2
and clothing
6
,
8 –9 154
,
163 –164 166 –171 249 –250 252 –254 256
,
302
female body
206
,
210 –211 213 –214 219 –220 222
,
224
,
226 –229 302
performance (see)
pose (see performance)
Belle Époque, La
227
,
231
brand
46
,
50 –51 83 –84 86 –87 100 –101 150 –151 271
branding
4 –5 11
,
13 –15 21 –23 37
,
47
,
52
,
60 –62 64 –65 71
,
108 –109 124(n32)
,
273 –274 284
heritage
52
,
60
,
70
,
256
identity
25
,
31
,
35
,
66
,
250
luxury (see luxury fashion brands)
British monarchy
271
,
274
,
278 –279 283
,
286
,
289
middle-class values
284 –285
British class system
10
,
286 –287
calamanco (see calimanco)
calimanco
294
,
298
,
307
calpac
311
chef
15
,
119
,
126
,
128
,
131
,
135 –138 297
classical revival
8
,
217 –220 227 –229 231 –232
company
23 –24 33 –34 78
,
81
,
83 –85
‘Buying-led’
24 –27 31
‘Design-led’
24
,
25
,
28
,
29
Constructivism (Russian)
193 –194 201
aesthetics
196 –198
Lef (see)
New Lef (see)
political ideology
196
Popova, Liubov (see)
Rodchenko, Aleksandr (see)
consumption
5
,
7
,
11
,
15
,
21 –23 44 –45 49
,
61
,
71
,
90 –96 98 –99 102
,
105
,
111
,
113
,
117
,
119
,
121 –122 126
,
128
,
132 –133 134 –135 137
,
154 –155 175 –177 181 –187 271
,
275
,
282
,
283
,
295 –296
craftsmanship
12
,
48
,
64
,
66
,
70
,
130
,
210
,
255
,
327 –329
mani sapienti/ petites mains
10 –11 323
,
325 –327 329
,
331 –332 334 –335 338
,
340
culture/cultural
6
,
8
,
90 –91 95
,
107
,
109
,
111 –112 114 –115 119 –121 123 –124 130
,
138
,
157
,
164 –165 166 –168 172
,
205
,
208
,
210
,
310
,
316 –317 319
,
325
,
329
,
331
brailing
110
narrative
2
,
7 –8 10
,
107 –110 113 –117 154
,
168
,
182
,
193
,
196
,
205
,
208 –209 213 –214 234
,
254
,
271
,
282
,
286
embodiment
16
,
166
,
168
,
295
,
324
revolution
164
Cypriot costume
314 –315
differentiation
19 –22 25 –26 (n26) 30 –31 33 –38
digital
sociability
51
,
113
,
250
temporality
41
,
50
,
52
,
116
education
collaborative learning 6
149 –150 157 –160
curriculum
149 –151 153 –155 163 –167
design (see fashion)
pedagogy
151 –153 155 –159 165 –167 168 –172
students
6 –7 15
,
149
,
151
,
153 –160 163 –172
embroidery
167 –168 171
,
315
,
318
,
323
,
325 –327 331
,
334 –336 340
Empire style
217
,
220
,
222
,
224
,
229
Enlightenment
44
enslaved people
10
,
285
,
294
,
296
,
298 –302 304
,
307
Modern Slavery Act
81
Europeanization (dress)
309
,
313
,
315 –316 318 –319
diffusion
316 –317
tailoring/making
315
Fascism
327
fashion
1 –11 19 –21 29 –30 43 –45 79 –85 91 –93 96 –99 119 –124 164 –165 197 –200 218 –222 224 –227 323
,
327 –328 310 –318
designers
11 –16 19 –37 46 –47 96 –97 99 –103 149
,
151 –153 157 –159 193
,
195
,
197 –203 218
,
228 –231 315
,
325 –331
education (see also)
1
,
6
,
149
,
151
,
153
,
154
,
155
,
156
,
157
,
158
,
159
,
160
,
163
,
164
,
165
,
166
,
167
,
168
,
169
,
170
,
171
,
172
fashion (social aspects of)
‘bubble-up’
274
cycle / system
14
,
20
,
26
,
28
,
32
,
41
,
46 –48 165
,
180
,
224
,
226
,
237
fashionability
4
,
25 –30 36
,
44
,
46
,
263 –264
identity
6
,
10
,
36
,
96
,
98
,
109
,
111 –114 116 –117 120 (n5)
,
163
,
211
,
234
,
243
,
258
,
260 –261 263
,
271
,
273 –274 299
status
44
,
69
,
211
,
222
,
271
,
285
,
287
,
295 –296 299
,
306
,
314
,
319
‘trickle-down’ 273–274, 323
‘fashnost’
7
,
193 –195 202
,
203
forecasting
29
,
31 –32 37
fez
312
,
314 –315
food truck
6
,
15
,
119
,
126
,
130 –131 134
gastro-trends
1
,
6
,
119
,
125 – 138
Generation Z
150
,
155 –156 160
globalisation
122
,
124
‘Grecian bend’
220
,
226
handing on (clothing)
304
haute couture
12
,
45
,
52
,
254
,
325
,
327
high-heels
15
cultural meaning
205
,
207
,
211
,
213
femininity
206
,
211
hybridity
13
,
112
,
119
,
122
,
124 –125 128
,
133 –135 138
hyper-reality
113
icon
7
,
8
,
52
,
66
,
109
,
114
,
150
,
272 –273 330
codification
7
,
236 –242
critical reading
234 –236 243
intericonicity
244
Kennedy Jacqueline (Jackie) (see)
Monroe, Marilyn (see)
image
1
,
8
,
22
,
61
,
101
,
108
,
111
,
170
,
197
,
201
,
207 –214 217
,
220
,
229
,
234 –235 237
,
241
,
244
,
250
,
261
,
276
,
302
narration/story-telling
25
,
35
,
47
,
70 –71 222
representation
22
,
47
,
107
,
110 –111 113 –117 170
,
207
,
209
,
219
,
225
,
229
,
235
,
239
,
240 –242 284
,
286
,
295
,
299
,
306
self-image
108
,
110
,
116
,
166
,
258
,
260 –261 263 –264 266
semiotics (see also meaning)
115
,
202
,
205 –208 210
,
212 –214 243 –244
‘inventiveness of poverty’ (see Missoni)
327
‘Kate Effect’ (see also Middleton, Kate)
273
knaps
294
,
300
knitting machines (see also Missoni)
323
,
327
,
329
,
330
,
333
,
338
,
340
La Belle Époque (see Belle Époque, La)
low-vision
259
barriers
259
,
265
coping strategies
259
,
260
,
264
devices
258 –259 264 –266
luxury
4
,
5
,
14 –15 41
,
46
,
49
,
66
,
69
,
70 –71 77
,
81 –82 155
,
209
,
229
,
326
fashion brands
2
,
4 –5 12
,
14 –15 42
,
46
,
49
,
50 –52 60 –62 65 –67 69 –70 77
,
81 –83
‘Macguffin technique’
213
magazines (fashion)
234 –246 274
marketing
22
,
50
,
52
,
61 –62 66
,
70 –71 91 –92 115
,
117
,
121
,
230
meaning
120
,
154
miracolo italiano
325
,
332
mockassens
301
multiculturalism
319
‘muslin disease’
226
osnaburg
300
,
307
Ottoman dress
anteri (see)
calpac (see)
tzoupe (see)
uniforms (military)
195
,
312
overalls
297 –298
performance
Performance financial
81
performance art
108 –115 249 –256 317
performance self
157
,
259
,
265 –266 274
plates (fashion)
217 –218 220
,
222
,
228 –229 231
advertisement (see)
representation
role of women (see)
Pop Art
234
,
236 –238 240
,
242 –243
pose (see performance)
postmodern
45
,
96
,
98
,
113
,
167
,
243
research
convenience sample
117
critical thinking
167
,
172
design process
24
,
46
,
92
,
152
,
154 –155 158 –159 165
,
167
,
169 –170
fishbowl/indirect fishbowl method
177
thematic analysis
23
,
177
retail
brick-and-mortar
70
,
180
charity
90
,
93
,
99 –103 179
,
281
high-street
23
,
26
,
31
,
33 –38 46
,
174
,
180
,
184
,
273
,
274
,
276
,
278
,
284
,
280
pop-up
90 –91 100
,
130
,
175
,
183
semiotic
22
,
51
,
120
,
205
,
212
,
271
smartphone
156
,
265 –266
social media
53
,
69
,
83
,
156
,
185
,
250
,
271
,
274
Facebook (see)
Instagram (see)
Snapchat (see)
sherryvallies (see overalls)
shoes
high-heels (see)
91
,
93 –97 100
,
103
,
176
,
179
,
237
mockassens (see)
275 –276 279 –281
slaves (see enslaved people)
Soviet regime
ideology
196
,
199
Gorbachev, Mikhail (see)
street food
119
,
125 –126 128 –134
storytelling
52
,
70
,
205
streetstyle (also street-style)
110
,
119
,
121 –123 125
,
137
,
194
supply chains
83
sustainability
79 –87 93 –94 152
,
175 –187 255
,
275
consumption (see)
frugality
277
,
280
,
282
recycling
91
,
93 –97 100
,
103
,
176
,
179
,
237
,
275
,
276
,
279 –281
renewable resources
sustainable luxury (see luxury)
technology tech
95
waste (conspicuous)
49
,
81
,
84
,
90 –91
wear-again (see also)
technology
assistive
258 –259 261
,
264 –266
Technology, design
168
,
227
trend
26 –38 45 –46 53 –54 61
,
93
,
99
,
107
,
110
,
155
,
180
,
194
,
202
,
217 –218 220
,
222
,
227 –228 231
,
237 –238 241
,
274 –275 283
,
304 –305 310 –319
gastro-trends (see)
tzoupe see ottoman dress
upcycling
91 –92 100
,
102
,
105
urbanization
316
,
319
Vertical Epoch
221
,
224
,
226
Victorian fashion
226
,
229
visual impairment
258 –259 263 –266
waiting list list
49
wear-again
thrift (see)
wedding
122
,
168
,
178
women (role of)
Austen, Jane (see)
Belle Époque, La
227
,
231
feminism
218
,
228
,
230
First French Empire
219
Wollstonecraft, Mary (see)
zeitgeist
99
,
108
,
113
,
117
,
193
,
202
,
239