Index, Worlds of Work

Guilds subject to authority of Papal Legate and municipal government

Pricing disputes

–

–

Principles of moral economy

174

Legate and municipal authority in disputes

116

121

–

City authorities supported urban shoemakers to defend urban industry

129

City failed to reform guilds

135

Legate gained power over Senate and shoemakers’ guild

121

–

Legate supported country towns to make quality shoes

122

–

(See also

Artisans, Crafts, Corporations/Guilds

)

Historians, Historiography, and Theorists

Bakhtin, Mikhail, parody and plurivocality

142n

332n

439n

Bergeron, Louis, late forms of proto-industry

–

235

Braudel, Fernand, traditional clothing, fashion

241

Conti, Elio, Klapisch, Christiane and Herlihy, David, Florentine taxation

400

Goody, Jack, interest in history among anthropologists

Grendi, Edoardo, “Microanalysis and social history”, “normal exception”

Hall, Rupert, “The Scholar and the Craftsman in the Scientific Revolution”

355

Henry, Louis, nominative demography

403

Hjelmslev, Louis, metonymies (paradigmatic relations)

Jakobson, Roman, structure as synchrony-diachrony

Kuhn, Thomas, “normal science”, paradigms and marginal cases

401

Lévi-Strauss, Claude, convergence of history and anthropology

Mantoux, Paul, the Industrial Revolution in the eighteenth century

–

Marx, Karl, reality not transparent

420

Mauss, Marcel “reciprocal obligations”

144

Mendels, Franklin, protoindustry

235

Polanyi, Karl, “market embedded in society” 144, “great transformation”

Pomian, Krzysztof, the “social use of historiography”

399

Saussure, Ferdinand de, relationship between langue and parole

420

Simmel, Georg, fashion

241

Stone, Lawrence, prosopographical studies—elites, broader social groups

Taylor, F.W., early 20^th century, scientific organization of work

381

Industrial Revolution

–

–

–

–

Lombe, John and Thomas, first mechanized silk mill in England, 1717

–

–

–

Lyon (See

Silk, Silk manufacturing

)

Microhistory/Macrohistory

399

–

407

History and anthropology

Themes from anthropology now in history

Kinship, material culture, symbolic rituals

Microhistorical investigation

“Hidden reality” revealed through marginal cases

Lived experience (scienza del vissuto)

Reveals invisible structures of lived experiences

Nominative methodology/micronominative

403

–

404

Name as guiding thread, personal, family, place

403

–

404

Reconstruction of personal and social relationships

404

Prosopographical studies

Elites, broader social groups

Serial history

400

–

401

Poni, Carlo

From historian of agriculture to historian of silk

Learning about silk mills, England and Italy

408

–

410

Research in State Archives in Venice

410

–

411

Silk mills’ classification

412

Mills “alla bolognese” (Technological transformation—water-powered mechanization )

411

–

412

Mills “alla piemontese” (work organization, large factories)

411

–

Origin of factory system

Silk mills spread in northern Italy, 16^th-18^th centuries

Silk mills not an Industrial Revolution; but foreshadowed the Industrial Revolution

–

Silk, Silk Manufacturing: Italy

Bologna

Handwork—traditional silk making, females worked at home, raised silkworms, reeled thread

214

Machine production—silk mill “alla bolognese”. See image

212

mechanized twisting (1341) 215 and winding, mid-15th century

217

mills with larger work force increased production

216

silk mills with “no human labor” (1481)

289

–

290

Network system—silk in international trade, organzine and voile

297

Secrecy of silk mill technology

Bologna manufacturers and city government opposed silk manufacturing in the countryside

219

Revealing the technology a crime punished by death

Urban industrial concentration, late 17th century

–

298

significant population engaged in the silk industry

297

299

vertical integration of spinning and winding, greater output, improved quality

Water power and machine production

canals and underground conduits for industry unique to Bologna

292

–

city with most water wheels, greatest number and size of industrial factories (late 17th century)

292

oldest water-powered silk mills (late 14th century)

silk mills 90% of water-powered factories

Decline of Italian silk industry

–

–

Expansion and competition, northern Italy

Lombardy

230

–

232

Late 17th century-18th century, Bergamo 203; Como, Lecco

–

230

19th century, Lombard countryside main producer of silk in Italy

Provinces of Bergamo, Como, Milan—2/3 of Italy’s production capacity

Province of Como: Como, Varese, Lecco, most productive manufacturing region

Province of Lecco—increased mechanization, lighter mechanicaltwisting frames eased work for women

232;

Greatest silk producer in Italy

230

–

232

Modena (1501), Trento (1538), Faenza (1559–1561)

215

Piedmont: Turin (1664), Racconigi

223

Innovations in spinning “alla piemontese”

1667

Governing authorities encouraged advanced technology; fines and warnings against opponents

203

–

Improved quality of thread

203

–

204.

See

image, 395

Pay changed from piece work to daily wage

Piedmontese technology introduced in Bologna, (1750), a large mill, finer thread

191

New technology and daily wage introduced in France

–

Vaucanson promoted Piemontese technology

224

394

Verticalization of production—spinning and twisting in same mill;

improved quality, greater worker control

220

increase in size and number of mills, surpassed Bologneseproduction and technology

224

Venice (1604), Venetian state (1634)

Mills spread in countryside, late 17th century

220

Gender division of labor

Bologna, northern Italy

Hand work at home—women raised silkworms, did reeling

214

–

220

Mechanical winding displaced female hand winding at home

Men and boys in mills

233

Boys did mechanical winding

218

Men did twisting and skilled weaving

218

Women paid less than men

216

Women’s work at home continued

“Doubling” thread, weaving voile; increase of women weavers

215

–

218

Florence: women worked at twisting machines

Lombardy, mid-19th century

Bergamo

17th-18th centuries, prohibited female mechanized winding to protect home winders

Increase of women in factory work. “doubling” and reeling

226

–

227.

See

image, 213

Como, Lecco—Men cultivated the land, women did mechanical winding in factories 233, girl factory workers lived in silk mill dormitories

Lecco—Women and girls, half the twisters in mills; home winding ended

231

–

232

Married men, did agricultural work or better-paid work, some in silk mills

Married women mainly did agricultural work, some returned to factory work

Women ended factory work, age 20–23

233

Women paid less than men and boys

–

Piedmont

Racconigi—men, women, children employed; women earned less than boys

223

–

Veneto: Vicenza—girls and boys did mechanical winding

221

Silk, Silk Manufacturing: Lyon, France

Fashion not luxury

Fashion as rapid change, distinct from luxury

–

242

ideas of Fernand Braudel, Georg Simmel

241

Societies with social mobility, influence of custom and religion replaced by wealth

242

Innovative silk production—annual change of fashion, late 17th century

243

Advanced planning in design and color of flowered silk fabrics

Customer preferences for silk fabric, patterned silk and fashionable clothes in silk

282

Jacques Savary, Le parfait négociant (1675), noted annual change of fashion

280

Lyon and Paris--Artistic and commercial dominance

Lyon fashions sold as “modes de Paris faites à Lyon” (“fashions of Paris made in Lyon”)

272

Role of designers unique in Europe

272

–

277

Long years of study of design; annual trips to Paris to visit art collections; immersion in Paris culture

Artistic and practical knowledge of needs and expectations of silk market; collaboration with weavers; discussions with merchants, buyers

–

–

Maximum publicity to promote new annual designs—dolls (poupées), fashion journals, pre-production samples

264

Lyon’s business strategy

Barriers to entry

238

257

Centralized decision-making

242

Dialogue between producers, designers, elites on tastes of consumers

243

Dominate the international market

243

–

Entrepreneurial strategies

Flexible production

–

Market segmentation

Monopolistic competition

238

–

Product quality and differentiation

–

–

–

Transactions costs

Lyon’s silk industry, merchants and workers

Grande Fabrique, Community of Merchants and Master Workers in Silk

–

–

Maîtres, small independent weavers (Petite Fabrique)

251

–

253

Maîtres gardes, heads of the Community

251

–

254

270

Maîtres ouvriers, majority of weavers, independent piece-rate workers, received designs and raw materials from fabricants

250

–

253

Marchands fabricants, rich entrepreneurs engaged in putting-out system

250

–

253

Merchants and weavers, conflicting economic interests

251

–

254

Disputed claims of responsibility for success of Lyonnais patterned silk

Fabricants gained greater importance

Ouvriers’ work and professional mobility obstructed

250

Technological innovations and inventions

Delasalle, Philippe (1770), use of perforated cards to change the design without resetting the loom

276

–

277

Falcon, Baptiste (11720’s), use of perforated cards on the loom to transfer designs onto the material

276

395

–

396

Jacquard, Joseph-Marie, invented Jacquard loom (1801), use of punch cards to transfer designs to the cloth

276

–

277

285

Vaucanson, Jacques de, invented automatic loom

–

Wages

Piece work

–

Regole, Farra

Wages and piece work

–

Wages for daily work replaced piece work

–

–

Improved work outcome; increased control of labor; greater value produced

203

–

Spread of daily wages to France

Women paid less than men. See

Gender Division of Labor

Waste (Cascami)

Waste in the silk industry, spinners versus merchants

–

–

Catholic moral theology, “just wage”, “moral economy of work”

199

–

200

Regole of Farra denied right to waste 208; Senate decree on waste

199

–

200

Waste increased when wages fell 200; daily wages reduced waste

–