Figures
1 Eye-shaped tapestry fragment 38
2 Child’s tunic 40
3 Child’s tunic 40
4 Tapestry orbiculus 41
5 Tapestry tabula 42
6 Tapestry tabula 42
7a Appliquéd clavi 43
7b Appliquéd shoulder orbiculus 43
7c Appliquéd knee orbiculus 43
8 Wool tapestry orbiculus of the ‘triumphant
rider’ 6th–7th c.
9 Amulet with the holy rider on one side, and the ‘much suffering’ eye on the other 49
10 Hematite amulet showing a rider spearing a prostate female demon 49
11 Rider identified as St. Sissinios killing the demon Alabasdria, watercolour by Jean Cledat of a 6th–7th c. fresco at the Baouît Monastery 49
12 Child’s red wool tunic 54
13 Child’s tunic. Note the addition of red wool tapestry trim around the neckline on a tunic with purple clavi and orbiculi 55
14 Child’s tunic. Red wool trim and tassels have been added at the neckline 56
15 Child’s tunic. Note the addition of red tapestry trim around the neckline and at the cuff 56
16 Child’s tunic. Red wool trim has been added around the neck and at the underarm openings 56
17 Child’s hooded tunic. Red wool fringe has been added around the front edge of the hood 56
18 Tapestry fragment, Egypt, 5th–6th c. (
19 Tapestry fragment, Egypt, 4th c. (
20 Tapestry fragment, Egypt, 4th c. (
21 Tapestry fragment, Egypt 6th–7th c. (
22 Woven textile fragment, Egypt, 7th–9th c.
(
23 Woven textile fragment, Egypt, 7th–9th c.
(
24 Woven textile fragment, Egypt, 7th–8th c.
(
25 Woven textile fragment, Egypt, 7th–9th c.
(
26 Bronze amulet, dated to 7th–8th c., showing magical ‘charaktêres’ 61
27 Reverse side of a bronze ‘holy rider’ amulet, showing Christ enthroned, and including magical ‘charaktêres’ 61
28 Front of child’s tunic, showing inscription cut to insert on yoke 62
29 Back of child’s tunic, showing unusual letter forms 62
30 Scale drawing of a square tunic, being worn by a man 5” 8” tall (see n.648) 66
31 Adult wool tunic 66
32 Detail of patching on square tunic found at Kellis 66
33 Heavily patched linen tunic from Kellis 66
34 3rd c. mosaic from Saint Romain-en-Gal, France 67
35 Child’s undyed wool tunic 67
36 Scale drawing of child’s cap sleeved tunic 68
37 Child’s red wool dress 68
38 A 4th c. mosaic showing a family group with servants 68
39 Scale drawing of a woman 5’2” tall wearing a dalmatic 69
40 Scale drawing of a man 5’8” tall wearing a dalmatic 69
41 Child’s tailored tunic in wool check 69
42 Child’s tailored tunic, showing details of side gores 69
43 Detail of fragments from the underarm section of a child’s wool tunic, showing inset sides gores; variation in weave type and direction suggests the use of recycled cloth 70
44a–b Scale drawing showing that Whitworth Art Gallery tunic no. T 9885 (cat. no. 72) could have been worn by a 5-year old or a 10-year old; the dotted lines indicate seams 70
45 Sasanian Riding Coat 71
46 Detail of a tapestry in the Brooklyn Museum, showing sleeves worn hanging over hands 71
47.1–2 Scale drawings of male and female figures wearing the same tapered-sleeve tunic 72
48.1–2 Scale drawing of male and female figures wearing the same straight-sleeve tunic 72
49 This fragment from the neck opening of a tunic, on display at the Ashmolean has been very skilfully darned in three different colours carefully matched to the underlying fabric 81
50 This adult’s wool tunic, has been reinforced at the armpit opening 81
51a–b This child’s red wool tunic, has been skilfully darned in a number of places in closely matching wool 81
52 The darning on this clavus from a child’s tunic, is roughly done in un-matching wool 82
53 Rough darning in un-matched wool covers most of this child’s tunic 82
54a–b These details from the wool tapestry clavi and tassels from a tunic at the Louvre show signs of felting 86
55 This detail from a wool tunic at the Louvre, shows the brushed ‘nap’ which has been raised on the fabric 86
56a Child’s wool tunic, front 89
56b Child’s wool tunic, back 89
57a Short trousers 90
57b Short trousers 90
58a Line drawing of a child’s tunic, the dotted lines represent the seams between patched pieces 90
58b A child’s tunic made from recycled cloth 90
59 Tri-coloured hat from Mons Claudianus 91
60 Line drawing of Mons Claudianus patchwork hat 91
61 Patchwork bonnet 92
62 Patchwork bonnet 92
63 Child’s hooded linen tunic 93
64 Fragment from the neck and shoulders of a child’s linen tunic 93
65 Scale drawing of tunic 100
66 Wool tunic 100
67 Scale drawing of a man of 5’8” wearing a square tunic (same as fig. 30) 101
68 Replica tunic being worn belted 101
69 Calendar floor mosaic from Sousse, Tunisia, ‘April’, showing square tunic being worn unbelted 101
70 Mosaic, Rome 4th c.
71 Reproduction of belted square tunic, being worn by a young woman 102
72 Reproduction of square tunic, being worn by a young woman; this view shows how belting the garment creates sleeves 102
73 A 4th c. mosaic showing a family group with servants (same as fig. 38) 103
74 Reproduction of dalmatic with belt threaded through sleeve openings and tied at the front 103
75 Reproduction of dalmatic with belt threaded through sleeve openings; this view shows the awkward length and shape of the resultant sleeves 103
76 The Projecta casket 103
77 Wall painting from the monastery at Baouît, showing monks with their sleeves slipped off 105
78 Mosaic from Hippolytus Hall, Mabada, Jordan 105
79 Original tunic 106
80 Scale drawing of replica tunic (cat no. 106) 106
81 Reproduction narrow sleeved tunic with sleeves pushed up, showing the resultant blousing at the shoulders 106
82 Reproduction narrow sleeved tunic, worn with the arms pushed out of the underarm openings and the sleeves hanging loose 106
83 Scale drawing showing the relative dimensions of the five narrow sleeved tunics described in chart 7 107
84a–b Replica tunic, showing details of sleeve and waist tuck 108
85a Replica tunic being worn unbelted; this view shows the extreme blousing at the shoulder created by pushing the sleeves up 109
85b Replica tunic being worn unbelted; this shows the garment being worn with the arms pushed out the underarm opening and the sleeves left hanging loose 109
86 Stilicho diptych 109
87 Original tunic 110
88 Scale drawing of tunic 110
89 Replica garment 110
90 Reproduction of tunic being worn unbelted; making the waist tuck wider at the sides brings the sides up, making the hem of the garment sit straight 111
91 A 4th c. mosaic from Piazza Armerina, Sicily: sacrifice to Artemis 111
92 Reproduction of tunic being worn by a man of 6’ in height; the poor fit of the sleeves indicates that this garment was probably made for someone much smaller 111
93 Original tunic 112
94 Replica tunic 112
95 Scale drawing showing measurements of tunic (cat. no. 54) 113
96 Scale drawing showing male figure of 5’8’ in height wearing tunic (same as fig. 39) 113
97 Scale drawing showing female figure of 5’2” in height wearing tunic (same as fig. 40) 113
98 Reproduction of tunic being worn by a man of 6’ in height 114
99 Reproduction of tunic being worn by a woman of 5’6” in height 114
100 Detail from the doors at the church of Santa Sabina, Rome 114
101 Fragmentary relief carving with St. Mark and his successors, ivory 114
102 Scale drawing of Louvre tunic 117
103 Original tunic in Louvre collection 117
104 Replica tunic 117
105 Reproduction of Louvre tunic being worn with the hood up 117
106a–b Details of the open arm seam and wrist ties on Louvre tunic 118
107 Scale drawing of Louvre tunic 118
108 Child’s tunic 118
109 Replica tunic 119
110 Neckline trim on original tunic (back view) 119
111 Neckline trim on replica tunic 119
112a–b Details of the sleeve and underarm opening on replica tunic 120
113 Replica tunic with sleeves loosely tied at the front 120
114 Replica tunic with sleeves criss-crossed at the front and tied at the back 120
115 Replica tunic worn with sleeves being left loose 121
116 Scale drawing of tunic (cat. no. 187) 121
117 Original tunic (same as fig. 16) 121
118 Replica of tunic 121
119 Replica of tunic being worn by a five-year old child 122
120a Replica tunic worn with underarm and side seams completely open 122
120b Replica tunic worn with side seams open and sleeves loosely tied at the front 122
120c Replica tunic worn with underarm seams open, but side seam stitched together 122
121 Detail from mosaic ‘massacre of the innocents’ at the Basilica of S. Maria Maggiore, Rome 123
122 ‘Joseph’s departure’, from the Vienna Genesis 123
123 ‘Entry of Christ into Jerusalem’ from the 6th c. Rossano Gospels 123
124 Kimbros mosaic 123
125 Scale drawing of tunic (cat. no. 72) 124
126 Original tunic (same as fig. 41) 124
127 Replica tunic 124
128 Replica of tunic being worn by an eight-year old child 124
129 One possible cutting layout for tunic (drawn to scale). Red dotted lines are cuts and black lines indicate seams; the hatched areas are the only waste 125
130 Replica tunic being worn by a three-year old child 125
131 Replica tunic being worn by a five-year old child 125
132 Replica tunic being worn by an eight-year old child 125
133 Scale drawing of tunic (cat. no. 38) 127
134 Original tunic (same as fig. 37) 127
135 Replica tunic 127
136 Replica of tunic being worn by a three-year old child 127
137 Embroidered detail on original garment 128
138 Embroidered detail on replica garment 128
139 Scale drawing of tunic (cat. no. 2) 128
140 Original tunic 128
141 Replica tunic 129
142 Replica tunic shown unbelted with arms pushed through sleeve openings 129
143 Replica tunic shown belted with arms pushed through sleeve openings 129
144 Child ‘wrapped’ in wide tunic, prior to swaddling 129
145 Swaddling bands tied over wrapped tunic 129
146 Limestone relief showing the birth of Christ 129
147 Detail of swaddled infant from the left side of the late 4th c., Brescia casket 129
148 Scale drawing of cloak inv. no. E16803, University of Pennsylvania Museum 131
149a Replica of cloak shown with the hood up 131
149b ‘V’ shaped fold created at the front of the replica cloak when the hood is down 131
150 A 6th c. wall painting from the monastic complex at Wadi Sarga 132
151 Mosaic of the Pharisee and the Sadducee, San Apollinare Nuovo 132
152 Replica of hooded cloak, showing the arms uncovered 132
153 ‘Archdeacon Claudius’ apse mosaic from Euphrasius Basilica 133
154 Replica of hooded cloak shown with hands in use, but still inside cloak 133
155a–c The same reproduction of a hooded cloak or casula being modelled by a man and a woman, showing the versatility of fit 133
156 Scale drawing of cloak 134
157 Bronze statue of a figure wearing a casula 134
158a Replica child’s cloak being worn by a three-year old child 134
158b Replica child’s cloak being worn by ten-year old child 134
159 Scale drawing showing the relative measurements of the three hoodless cloaks being reproduced 135
160a–d Four views of replica cloak 3a 135
161 David’s marriage to Michal, 7th c. silver plate 136
162 Detail from the column of Marcus Aurelius 136
163 Replica cloak no. 3b 136
164 Orans figure, church of SS. Cosmas and Damianos, Jerash, Jordan 136
165 Panel of an ivory diptych on display at the Bargello, Florence 137
166 Statue of governor Oecumenius, from the north agora, Aphrodisias 138
167 Replica cloak no. 3c 138
168 A 5th c, ivory consular diptych in the Biblioteca Capitolare of the Cathedral of Novara 138
169 Replica cloak no. 3c 138
170a Blackthorn branch 140
170b Blackthorns of various natural lengths 140
170c Blackthorn ‘pins’ in use 140
171 ‘Rhodia’ figure 141
172 Replica of narrow sleeved tunic being worn with the sleeves off the arms and tucked into the belt 141
173 Mosaic panel from the Villa of the Falconer in Argos 145
174 Sarcophagus of the hunt (first half of the 4th c.
175 The Good Shepherd,
176 Detail from a 4th c. sarcophagus 146
177 A 6th c. mosaic from the domus del tappeti di pietra, Ravenna 147
178 A 4th c. mosaic, Fondo Cossar, Aquileia 147
Glossary Illustrations
1 Warp weighted loom 170
2 Horizontal loom 170
3 Two-beam vertical loom 170
4 Drawloom 170
5 Two variations of loop pile 171
6 Soumak 171
7 ‘S’ and ‘Z’ spinning directions 171
8 Weft-faced tabby (left), tabby (centre), warp-faced tabby (right) 171
9 Tablet loom 172
10 Tapestry weave 172
11 Twill weave 172
Charts
1 Iconography found on tunics 53
2 Incidence of red on children’s tunics 55
3 Incidence of red on adult tunics 55
4 Incidence of embellishment on tunics 57
5 Charaktêres in the Greek Magical Papyri 61
6 Incidence of waist tucks on tunics 104
7 Details of the basic measurements of the exemplars and the replica 107
8 Head circumference-for-age BOYS 115
9 Head circumference-for-age GIRLS 115